“Hi Sugar, are you rationed?”

By: Belle Wilmot

Bugs Bunny is introduced in the cartoon “A Wild Hare”, Auschwitz opens, ballpoint pens go on sale, the Japanese bomb Pearl Harbor, the first McDonalds opens it’s doors, 11Hitler escapes assassination, a decapitated rooster lives for 18 months, and an atomic bomb is dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. By now you’re probably asking yourself how could all these seemingly unrelated things be on a list together? Well, to let you in on a little secret, they all happened during the 1940’s.Picture12

The 40s were an extremely diverse time full of great inventions but also of horrible and unforgettable atrocities. The biggest and most influential atrocity being World War II. I’d hope we all know a little something about that, so not to get into too much detail but it has something to with a guy named Adolf Hitler. During World War II fashion was impacted and affected greatly, even during a time when the world felt like it was crumbling apart, fashion is still at the forefront. A few of the major ways fashion was influenced was due to the fact that women now had to enter the work force and materials were being rationed. Instead of being adorned in beautiful and feminine dresses, their clothing had to permit them to do a man’s job. Women had to work with what they already owned and wear overalls and boiler suits now that they were in the workforce.Picture14

Fast forward to 1947, Picture10the war has been over for 2 years and the US is aching to get back to the way things were and move away from the horror of World War II. To move past the rationing and the masculinity of women’s clothing and bring femininity back, Christian Dior creates his ever so famous “New Look”. This “New Look” accentuated women’s tiny waists and voluptuous hips, a complete contrast to their overalls and boiler suits. Even with such a small change in fashion, this was a way of getting back to normalcy, return to femininity, and a way to remember the luxury that was once there.

Looking at fashion in today’s society there arePicture13 still aspects of 1940’s clothing that is prevalent now. No matter which season or year you choose there are always fashion shows with a little 40s influence; like Marc by Marc Jacobs or Bottega Veneta in Fall 2013 or now with Miu Miu’s Spring 2015 collection, you’ll always find a little hint. Some women still want to show off their figures with cinched in waists and fitted skirts and there are women who would rather add some masculinity to their wardrobe with pants instead. So, whether you’re a tomboy or a girlie girl looking for fashion inspiration, the 1940s has quite the array to choose from and is a great starting point for a little daily inspiration.

References:

Freeman, H. (2000). 1940s fashion. Retrieved from http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2000/aug/04/fashion1

Hull. (n.d.). 1940s Fashion – Rationing and Making do. Retrieved from http://www.hullcc.gov.uk/museumcollections/collections/storydetail.php?irn=234

Rosenberg, J. (n.d.). 1940s History Timeline. Retrieved from http://history1900s.about.com/od/timelines/tp/1940timeline.htm

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Smell’s Like 90’s Spirit

By: Hailey Sands

You’re walking down the street when suddenly you hear the lyrics, “Come as you are, as you were, as I want you to be,” playing from inside your favorite thrift store. Now, look at your mood ring, now back to me.Picture9 Now back to your mood ring, now back to me. What does your mood ring say you’re feeling? Nostalgic possibly? For me it does, and I only got 6 glorious years being a 90’s kid. We could wear butterflies clips in our hair without judgment, and purposefully got up early on Saturday to watch cartoons. During the last 10 years of 1900’s, we perceived the 21st century would be like Zenon’s life. And as much as I wish saying Zetus Lepetus would have stuck, it didn’t. In truth, the last ten years of the 20th century are rich in history, culture, and crisis.

The 90’s were a decade that truly pushed towards educating the youth on social issues. The Rock the Vote campaign that launched in 1990 set out to build the political power of young people. Endorsed by celebrities, like my boy P. Diddy, that encouraged the youth not only register to vote but to learn about the power they had in deciding who and what affected the future.Picture8 It became cool to be socially aware on a global scale. Television shows like, “The Real World” also largely impacted the attitudes of the 90’s generation. Season 3: San Francisco was specifically responsible for the education on the HIV/AIDS disease. Homosexual cast member, Pedro Zamora’s put a face to what it looked like to be HIV positive and captured the hearts of viewers. His commitment ceremony to his boyfriend was televised, again putting a face to modern homosexuality. His death only one day after the season finale created a desire in the youth to begin getting STD tested and engages in safe sex.

Teenager’s ruled the 90’s. It was truly at time period were high school wasPicture7 the quintessential aspect of what was cool. Music played a huge impact on the 90’s as far as culture. With the MTV being a channel that blended together music, television, news, and fashion it was easy to find out about the coolest up and coming artists. The biggest music trend was arguably the grunge, which adapted into it’s own style of fashion. Artists like Pearl Jam, Nirvana, and Red Hot Chili Peppers had everyone wanting to be angsty, moody, and develop a sudden deep voice. Seattle, the birthplace of grunge, became the coolest city in America and teenagers from all over were piercing whatever body parts they could, and buying whatever flannels they could find. The suicide of grunge’sPicture6 god, Kurt Cobain, in 1994 truly shook the world. He was idolized by millions and remains idolized today.

In a decade that glorified Drew Barrymore as a style icon, Lindsey Lohan as a role model, and *NSYNC as heartthrobs, generation Z was born and changed the world as we knew it. So dust off your cassette tapes of Clueless and pay tribute to the decade that survived the Y2K bug.

References:

  1. About (n.d.). In Rock the Vote. Retrieved October 8, 2014, from http://www.rockthevote.com/
  2. Flores, F. (n.d.). Back to the ’90s. In DIG Magazine . Retrieved October 8, 2014 http://digmagonline.com/2139/feature/back-to-the-90s/
  3. Francis, M. (n.d.). 90’s Flashback: Real World. In Philadelphia Magazine. Retrieved October 8, 2014, from http://www.phillymag.com/news/2013/04/01/mtv-real-world-san-francisco-pedro-zamora/
  4. Kiger, P. (n.d.). What Did The 1990s Mean?. In National Geographic. Retrieved October 8, 2014, from http://channel.nationalgeographic.com/channel/the-90s-the-last-great-decade/interactives/what-did-the-1990s-mean/
  5. Mayberry, S. (2008, March 12). The Rise of Underground . In The History of Grunge. Retrieved October 8, 2014, from http://grungehistory.wordpress.com/about/

Dear Diary

By: Katie Griffin

Jennifer’s Diary DO NOT READ was sprawled across the first page of the old, tattered book. Jennifer, in her mid-sixties, was taking a short trip down memory lane. She randomly flipped open her old journal and began reading.

Dear Diary, Michael took me to see Saturday Night Picture1Fever. That movie is so far out! John sure knows how to boogie, you know. Michael should learn from him. There’s supposed to be a party at Amy’s this weekend and rumor says there’ll be a lot of heads there. She does like to pardy hardy. I’m not sure if I wanna go, but I’ve been needing to get more doobies for a whi-Jennifer flipped to another page.

Dear Diary, have you heard Lennon’s Imagine? It’s not something to get down to, but like it’s really chill. Some of my friePicture2nds say it’s a drag, but it’s nice to have a tune to mellow out. Don’t get me wrong, I’d rather boogie with the Bee Gees or Earth, Wind, and Fire. But with all the talk about war and Vietnam… More pages flipped.

Dear Diary, I went shopping Picture3for threads today and found the niftiest shirt! It has a big rainbow smiley face on it. It’s totally groovy. And tomorrow I’m getting my hair cut like Farrah’s! I’ll be the foxiest lady at the beach. Maybe even as pretty as Laura. Well…probably not. But Michael will still have to notice me! It’s going to be-she flipped to another section of the diary.

Dear Diary, here’s the real skinny – Pong is the gPicture4reatest thing ever. Who could have imagined we could play games on a screen!? I’m more addicted to this than Amy is to shagging. Don’t tell anyone, but I heard she might be knocked up. I hope she’s not cause that would be like such a drag, you know. The pages turned again.Picture5

Dear Diary, two words: Ziggy. Stardust. That was all the entry contained.

Jennifer sat there for a while, smiling and reflecting on her 20’s. It had been such a wild time. Everyone was about peace and mellowness. The youth had a lot of sway and clothing had ranged from hippie psychedelic styles to the glitter and glory of more outstanding outfits. But it all seemed to fit together in a crazy mess somehow. Jennifer had tended more towards the earthy side, but she had friends who were on the other end of the spectrum. There was a switch in beauty, with celebrities and models like Farrah Fawcett, Laura Hutton, and Cheryl Tiegs bringing the tanned ‘All-American’ look to the forefront. She contemplated how much new technology had been introduced from floppy disks and video games to ethernet, liposuction, and the all-important cell phones and walkmans. Music varied widely from glam pop to disco to New Wave towards the end. As Jennifer sat there thinking about her past, she realized how much the things of her youth had influenced and were still affecting today’s beauty, technology, and music. She smiled.

References:

Crunk, A. (2012, September 26). People Antics Forecasting: 1970’s: Zeitgeist. People Antics Forecasting: 1970’s: Zeitgeist. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from http://people-antics.blogspot.com/2012/09/1970s-zeitgeist.html

American Hit Network. (n.d.). American Hit Radio – 1970’s. 1970’s Decade Overview. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from http://www.americanhitnetwork.com/ahn/decade-overview.cfm/decade/1970

Music Poster Books. (n.d.). in the 70s. Retrieved October 5, 2014, from http://www.inthe70s.com/generated/terms.shtml

Johns, K. (2009, December 22). Social Values And Norms. 1970s Slang Words Slang Terms. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from http://www.lifepaths360.com/index.php/1970s-slang-words-slang-terms-70s-slang-peace-far-out-wipe-out-shag-disco-pad-pardy-hardy-7924/

Bellis, M. (n.d.). Timeline and Inventions of the 70s. The 70s – the technology, science, and inventions. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from http://inventors.about.com/od/timelines/a/modern_3.htm

Open-Book. (n.d.). The Gentlemens Standard. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from http://gentlemenstandard.com/book/open-book/

Dodge, S. (2013, July 11). He’s still got the fever! John Travolta looks positively giddy as he dances with shirtless surfers on the beach in Rio. Mail Online. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2359745/John-Travolta-looks-positively-giddy-dances-shirtless-surfers-beach-Rio.html

The Most Memorable Swimsuits Ever – Farrah Fawcett. (n.d.). InStyle.com. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from http://www.instyle.com/instyle/package/general/photos/0,,20396039_20397333_20797660,00.html

Le Luxe Mannequin. (n.d.). : David Bowie Style. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from http://leluxemannequin.blogspot.com/2013/02/david-bowie-style.html

Consoles of the ’70s | GamesRadar. (n.d.). Consoles of the ’70s. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from http://www.gamesradar.com/consoles-of-the-70s/

Music Detail – fanart.tv – fanart.tv. (n.d.). fanarttv. Retrieved October 7, 2014, from https://fanart.tv/artist/bf0f7e29-dfe1-416c-b5c6-f9ebc19ea810/bee-gees/

One Lump Or Two?

By: Katie Griffin

Imagine this: you’re visiting Europe and your goal is to experience as many traditions as possible, including the all-important high noon tePicture11a. You’ve made all the proper arrangements and are going to be enjoying your tea at a very elegant place. You certainly don’t want to make a fool of yourself by showing up in the tourist-favored socks and sandals combo with a matching fanny pack, but what in the world should you wear? Well, if you’re emulating the English, you’ll likely go for a cardigan and skirt perhaps paired with a strand of your grandma’s best pearls. This is a very typical and highly iconic look. But do you know who created it? The answer is Pringle of Scotland. No, we’re not talking about chips you use to channel your inner duck, but instead an almost 200 year old knitwear designer. However, Pringle hasn’t always been so illustrious. In fact, it didn’t even start as Pringle of Scotland, but as Waldie, Pringle, Wilson and Co. Thank goodness they rethought that name.

While Pringle is most famous for the creation of the Argyle knit Picture13and the twinset or the cardy-skirt combo, it actually started out as an underwear company. I guess you could say they developed from the inside out – especially considering that knitwear wasn’t originally considered outerwear. When Pringle first introduced the Argyle knit, it was immediately adopted by the Duke of Windsor Picture14which pretty much made it super cool back in the day. They began to specialize in cashmere clothing in the 1870’s when new technology for separating the finest fibers was developed. Robert Pringle was pretty much in charge of everything until 1934 when Otto Weisz was hired as the head designer. He is the one responsible for the twinset. Pringle rode a fashion high thanks to the modeling of their clothing by actresses like Grace Kelly and Lauren Bacall until the 1980’s. At that time, Pringle became financially unstable and lost a lot of market share to cheaper imports. In the late 90’s and early 2000’s, under new leadership, Pringle repositioned itself back into the luxury designer market.

Picture12With help from a massive marketing campaign and new lines designed by Stuart Stockdale, Pringle is once again a prominent luxury knitwear company desired by stars. Maybe you’ve heard of a few of the current celebs who’ve been spotted wearing Pringle –Picture15 Madonna and David Beckham, just for starters. The label has returned to its original foundations, focusing on small and intimate stores that sell high end cashmere and wool products. They ran through a few designers recently, including Claire Waight Keller and Alistair Carr, but seem to have settled with Massimo Nicosia for the time being. He designed their most recent line using 3D printing technology. While very advanced and cool, the style of the clothing is still classy with a sporty edge, staying true to the company’s ideals of innovation with authenticity. Check out their newest designs when you have a chance.

 

References:

History. (n.d.). Explore Pringle of Scotland History Comments. Retrieved September 30, 2014, from http://brand.pringlescotland.com/heritage/history/

Pringle of Scotland. (n.d.). Vintage Fashion Guild : Label Resource : Pringle Of Scotland. Retrieved September 30, 2014, from http://vintagefashionguild.org/label-resource/pringle-of-scotland/

Woodgate, V. (2011, August 12). Pringle of Scotland – a heritage in luxury. Telegraph. Retrieved September 30, 2014, from http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG8691617/Pringle-of-Scotland-a-heritage-in-luxury.html

Bergin, O. (2012, April 26). Alistair Carr and Pringle of Scotland part ways. – Telegraph. Retrieved September 30, 2014, from http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG9228008/Alistair-Carr-and-Pringle-of-Scotland-part-ways.html

Images:

Elle Apparel: Welcome Sponsor: The Fabric Fairy. (2011, November 28). Elle Apparel: Welcome Sponsor: The Fabric Fairy. Retrieved September 30, 2014, from http://www.elleapparelblog.com/2011/11/welcome-sponsor-fabric-fairy.html

Pringle of Scotland Spring/Summer 2015 Ready-To-Wear. (n.d.). Vogue UK. Retrieved September 30, 2014, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/ready-to-wear/pringle-of-scotland

Pringle of Scotland Spring/Summer 2015 Menswear. (n.d.). Vogue UK. Retrieved September 30, 2014, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2015/mens/pringle-of-scotland

Callender, C. (2011, May 23). Pringle: in with the old. – Telegraph. Retrieved September 30, 2014, from http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/article/TMG8512484/Pringle-in-with-the-old.html

David Beckham Bodywear Coming to an Underwear Drawer Near You. (2011, May 19). Style News StyleWatch Peoplecom RSS. Retrieved September 30, 2014, from http://stylenews.peoplestylewatch.com/2011/05/19/david-beckham-underwear/

Madame Ricci

By: Hailey Sands

Have you ever flipped through the pages of Vogue and stopped dead in your tracks becausPicture6e you’ve seen the most beautiful garment in the history of mankind? Chances are that you’ve stumbled upon anything by Nina Ricci. I know I’ve been there all too many of times. Nina Ricci is a prestigious name in the fashion industry, creating garments of impeccable quality. The story behind the Ricci House is just as remarkable.

Born in 1883 by the name Maria Nielli, moved to France from her home in Italy twelve years later. It was there that she be began apprenticing as a dressmaker and by 18 became the head of the salon.Picture8 By 22 she was their chief designer, and this was before women were considered equals in the workforce, so bow down. She had been designing for Raffin 20 years before her son convinced her to open her own house in 1932, at the age of 50. It was huge success, as in her house occupied 11 floors in 3 different buildings, during a time of war. It’s safe to say that Madame Ricci wasn’t a businesswoman, she was a business, woman.

Nina’s style was elegant, feminine, and luxurious, Picture10making gowns cut on the bias and accentuating the female body. Nina was a known for, “echoing the X-cross in the skirt pattern in the surplice, [and] crossed-over treatment of the bodice.” She was also as couture as it got. After WWII ended, son Robert had an idea to raise money for war relief which included, “172 dolls from 40 Paris couturiers, including Balenciaga and Madame Gres, dressed in the latest fashions and an exhibition was held at the Louvre, in Paris.” By 1950, Nina was 70 and wasn’t able to design any longer; Jules-Francois Crahay was brought in as head designer four years later. In 1963 Crahay left the house and Gerard Pipart, who’s resume included Balmin, Fath and Jean Patou, was brought in. Madame Ricci died in 1970 at the age of 87, and the house continued to be designed by Pipart.

In 2003, Lars Nilsson became the creative designer, showing his first collection for house at Paris Fashion Week. He has some big (and fabulous) shoes to fill, but was successful in hiPicture9s endeavors. The designs were wispy, feminine, and sexy, not nearly as tailored as Ricci was in her day, yet the collection was on point with the direction of the times.

Today, Nina Ricci is still a powerhouse Picture7(pun intended). Recently departed (allegedly for the top spot Oscar de la Renta) creative director, Peter Copping, has brought glory to the Ricci Name. For the past five years he’s stayed true to the essences of the brand, bringing romance and femininity to the runway. Ricci is still amongst the biggest names in fashion with designs so impeccable they could bring tears to your eyes. But if your eyes fill with tears looking at price, maybe her perfume, L’Air du Temps, would be suitable.

References:

  1. Nina Ricci (n.d.). In org. Retrieved October 1, 2014, from http://fashion-forum.org/fashion-designers/nina-ricci.html
  2. Nina Ricci Fashion Designer (n.d.). In Fashion Informant. Retrieved October 1, 2014, from http://fashion.infomat.com/nina-ricci-designer.html
  3. Phelps, N. (2014, September 25). Nina Ricci: Spring 2015 Ready-to-Wear. In com. Retrieved October 1, 2014, from http://www.style.com/fashion-shows/spring-2015-ready-to-wear/nina-ricci/
  4. *All photos taken from Style.com *

Out Of This World

By: Belle Wilmot

Pierre Cardin est un homme Français né en Italie avec un sens intéressant de design. For those of you who don’t happen to be a French language extraordinaire like myself, thanks to Google Translate, that means that Pierre Cardin is a Frenchmen who was born in Italy with a very interesting sense of design.

Picture1So, first, let’s talk about his humble beginnings. Cardin’s first few working years were an extremely busy time for him where he went from one job to another. His interPicture4est in fashion began early when he started working with a clothier in France when he was 14 years old, where he first learned the basics of fashion design and the construction of clothing. From there, at the age of 17, he moved from home and began making suits for women. Fast-forward to 1945, at the age of 24, when he moved to Paris and studied architecture, all while working with the fashion house Paquin and then with Elsa Schiaparelli until he finally became head of Christian Dior’s atelier in 1947. After working there for 3 years Cardin spread his wings and launched his own fashion house, with no ill feelings from Dior as it is reported that he would send his surplus of clients Cardin’s way, which helped his client base and recoPicture5gnition grow.

Pierre’s design aesthetic is very unique and he is known for being the forerunner of Space Age fashion and especially known for his avant-garde style. Through his designs his background in architecture shines through brightly. He is known for playing with shapes, line, contours, volume, and cuts with very little emphasis on the female figure, which make his designs stand out from many of his counterparts. Working with Paquin’s fashion house, Schiaparelli and Dior could have only influenced him exponentially as they were all known for their standout and innovative designs. Cardin had huge dreams when opening his own fashion house and remains designer, owner and chief executive with no sign of that changing anytime in the near future.

Picture3   Not only does Pierre Cardin own and run his design houPicture2se but has dabbled in many other career paths, as he has been doing since he was a young boy. Cardin designed the famous bubble house in the Mediterranean, which again show off his eccentric design aesthetic and expertise in many different fields. Cardin has also had his hand in car design, the perfume industry, the cigarette market, with a line of accessories including watches and sunglasses, a line of luxury pens, and the list of unusual things that make him an extremely smart business man continue to infinity and beyond. Pierre has been quoted saying: “I will have owned it all, without it owning me” and to say the very least this is nothing but true for this successfully talented man.

References:

Pierre Cardin. (2014). The Biography.com website. Retrieved 04:03, Sep 30, 2014, from http://www.biography.com/people/pierre-cardin-9237958.

Pierre Cardin: 60 Years of Innovation. (2010). Coolhunting.com website. Retrieved 05:15, Sep 30, 2014, from http://www.coolhunting.com/culture/pierre-cardin-6.php

AG/GA

American Gigolo| Giorgio Armani

By: Anna Waggoner

Have you ever seen an Instagram post that claims to be a picture of “Monday morning coffee” but really you know its all about the fabulous jewelry on the hand holding the cup, or the brand new shoes peeping out at the bottom of the picture? Well the 1980s movie American GigoloPicture10 is not much different from these posts. Plot aside, this movie was all about the Armani. Giorgio Armani changed the way men dressed in the 80s, and this movie served as one of the most iconic displays of his style.

The story takes place in the opulent city of Beverly Hills, California, where the secret and scandalous lives of the most fabulous elite are exposed thanks to the movie’s director Paul Schrader. A gorgeous male escort bPicture12y the name of Julian Kaye is framed for a murder that he didn’t commit, and ironically ends up murdering the man who framed him. He develops a side relationship with a Californian senator’s wife, who ends up saving Julian from a life in jail with her alibi, exposing their affair, so that she and Julian might be together. Though a love story at the end, the movie leaves very little to the imagination about the graphic and sensual lifestyles of male escorts in the 80s, and the range of customers they served. Though some of the wealthiest people in the world, very few characters show in the movie seem to be fully happy. Schrader captured the emptiness and loneliness of their elitist lifestyles, and the drastic measures that they would go to in order to find fulfillment.

Now that you know the basic plot, lets get back to the fashion, shall we? The scene where Julian is laying out his outfits and mixing and matching his fabulous Armani ties and shirts is one of the most iconic and influential scenes in film historyPicture11. Armani used bold colors and lighter fabrics than men had been accustomed to at this time. The dangerously attractive protagonist Julian Kaye is even seen influencing other’s styles in the movie as well, such as the detective who is trying to convict him. Throughout the movie there is a heavy influence put on the wardrobe, which changed the way movies were styled in the years to come. All this being said, lets not forget about the amazing wardrobe of Lauren Hutton throughout the movie as well. Her staple red Bottega Veneta clutch compliments every effortless outfit she dawns, especially her Armani trench coat, both of which are still coveted by women today.

Picture13Today Armani continues to lead the suit business, both for men as well as women. The relaxed style of suit has not gone out of style since it was introduced in the 80s, and continues to remain a classic look for men today. Do YOU see much difference between the dapper Richard Gere and the stunning Christian Bale?

 

References:

Movies With Most Stylish Mens’ Fashion: American Gigolo. (2013, August 23). Retrieved September 23, 2014, from http://www.thegentleman.com.br/fashion/americangigolo_menswear_costume

Puchetti, A. (2012, February 27). American Gigolo. Retrieved September 23, 2014, from http://www.vogue.it/trends/il-trend-del-giorno/2012/02/stile-maschile#ad-image167189

Giorgio Armani Ad Campaign Fall/Winter 2008-MyFDB. (n.d.). Retrieved September 23, 2014, from http://www.polyvore.com/giorgio_armani_ad_campaign_fall/thing?id=78116850